The Ha Giang Loop: A detailed Guide + Truth about bribing the police

The Ha Giang Loop is renowned among backpackers. If you're planning a trip to Vietnam and it's not yet on your to-do list, it soon will be.

Embarking on the loop raises numerous questions, such as: How many days should I allocate for the loop? Which tour company is best? Should I opt for an easy rider or travel solo? What should I know about police checkpoints and the possibility of bribing?

Below, you'll find answers to these questions, coupled with my personal experience on the Ha Giang Loop.

What is the Ha Giang Loop?

Ha Giang, a modest town located about 300 km from Hanoi, doesn't offer much in terms of activities. Nevertheless, many backpackers and travelers, myself included, endure the eight-hour sleeper bus journey to this small town.

Most travelers spend a night in Ha Giang before setting off early the next morning. The full loop is typically completed in three or four days. From my experience, I recommend three days, as sitting on the bike all day can be quite uncomfortable. However, if budget and time permit, an extra day is worthwhile for this once-in-a-lifetime experience.

What about tour companies?

For experiencing the loop, one popular option is a paid tour. After thorough research, I chose Lila Inn Tours, a relatively new company founded in 2018. They exceeded expectations.

Their tours are distinct, taking you off the beaten path and limiting group sizes to ten. As an introvert, I appreciated this more relaxed setting. My travel companion and I were fortunate to be the only ones on the tour, making it feel more personalized and relaxed.

I paid $168 for a three-day, two-night tour, including all meals, accommodation, entrance fees, and an easy rider. Tips, though optional, are appreciated. I tipped my guide 500 Vietnamese Dong, about 20 USD.

Lila Inn Tours' website provides a detailed map and day-to-day itinerary. Staying at Lila Inn Homestay, you're treated to dinner before the tour and a shower upon returning, with bus arrangements made for your next destination.

There are numerous other tour options, with Jasmine Hostel Tours being another popular choice. Known for their party atmosphere and larger groups of 20-30 people, they are generally the pricier option.

Taking a Tour Without an Easy Rider

Another option for the Ha Giang loop is to take a tour without an easy rider. This means you enjoy all the benefits of a tour but have to drive yourself. I recommend this option for travelers confident on a motorbike who prefer assistance with the route and pre-arranged accommodations. This choice is also more affordable, as there's no need to pay for an easy rider or a tip at the end.

Touring without an easy rider also means navigating the loop yourself without the concern of bribing police. I've heard that other easy riders assist in getting through checkpoints without paying bribes or by negotiating a much lower fee.

Going Solo + The Truth About Bribes

Going solo is ideal for adventurers and those very confident on a bike. I feel fairly confident driving a motorbike, having rented quite a few throughout my time in Southeast Asia. However, the loop is known to be the most dangerous in Vietnam for good reason, with extremely sharp curves, switchbacks, and parts of the road that have steep drop-offs. An accident can be fatal.

That said, using common sense and taking it slow on difficult patches of road should ensure safety. After completing the loop, I feel I could have driven it, but it would not have been as enjoyable, as you must focus on the road and might miss the surrounding beauty.

Bribing the Police

During my three days on the loop, we encountered only one police checkpoint, about 30-40 km outside of Ha Giang. Other than that, we didn't see police anywhere else. The crackdown on unlicensed tourists on the loop is due to accidents involving travelers and locals.

Police often stop foreigners knowing most don't have a motorbike license with an international driving permit, which is required to avoid fines. Bribes typically range from 20-40 USD. On the loop, I met a French couple doing the loop solo. They mentioned that the company they rented bikes from took them past the first checkpoint, and since then, they hadn’t faced any issues with police.

Ultimately, the decision to take the risk is yours. If you're going solo to save money, it's probably worth it, as there don't seem to be many checkpoints. I've also heard of travelers stopping just before a checkpoint and paying a local to drive them through. Ironically, we were told no locals have a motorbike license, but the police don't stop them.

In essence, bribing is just another tourist trap, which in my opinion, is part of the travel adventure!

With all this information, it's up to you whether or not to take the risk of going solo. In my opinion, if you're a good driver and don’t mind bribing the police occasionally, it's a great option!

Ha Giang Loop: My Experience

Below is a detailed account of my personal experience on the Ha Giang Loop.

Day One: Towering Mountains + Hemp Villages

We began after a quick breakfast of Banh Mi and traditional Vietnamese coffee. Despite the overnight rain, which continued into the morning, my friend and I, clad in rain gear, were eager to start. Others in our tour chose to wait, but our anticipation couldn't be dampened.

For the next few hours, we ventured into the mountains. The rain soon ceased, leaving clouds draped over the slopes. We made several stops at various viewpoints, marveling at the towering limestone structures, feeling as though we were on another planet.

Around noon, we stopped at a local restaurant for a traditional Vietnamese lunch. The spread included rice, broth, pork belly, beef, fried morning glory, spring rolls, and other side dishes that escape my memory. It was, to say the least, delicious!

After lunch, we resumed our journey. In the afternoon, we visited a local village known for hemp fabric production. A local woman demonstrated the entire process, from harvesting hemp to drying, shredding, boiling, and eventually weaving it.

Later, we arrived at our homestay around 5pm. After resting, our easy riders took us to a nearby waterfall. Swimming was an option, but I preferred to simply enjoy the view.

Dinner was another traditional Vietnamese meal, similar to lunch, accompanied by plenty of rice wine. A word of caution: the wine is stronger than you might expect. The evening concluded with karaoke, a Vietnamese favorite.

Day Two: The River Gorge + A Jungle Hike

The second day, the heart of the loop, offered the most stunning views. We started at 8 am with a breakfast of pancakes and coffee. Like the previous day, we frequently stopped to enjoy the breathtaking landscapes.

We arrived at a gorge with a beautiful teal river, one of my favorite sights of the entire loop. Our guides then led us to a popular rock for a thrilling photo opportunity.

The day included a hike alongside a mountain, passing farmers and mountain goats, with the jungle enveloping us and the mountains in the distance. Our guide pointed out the border with China, an intriguing sight.

The trail led us through local villages, offering a glimpse into rural Vietnamese life. This part of the hike seemed exclusive to our tour, as we encountered no other travelers.

The day concluded at another homestay around 5 pm, with another delicious dinner and the option of more karaoke. Exhausted, we opted for an early night.

Day Three: Flower Fields + Kings

The final day began at 8 am. Our first stop was a palace of a famous Vietnamese king. After more scenic viewpoints, we paused in a field of pink wildflowers, perfect for a photo opportunity. The day continued with a drive through winding roads, surrounded by stunning scenery.

We arrived back in Ha Giang around 4:30 pm, tired but fulfilled. Reflecting on it, the journey was a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

As I write this, with only one day left in Vietnam, having explored from north to south, I can confidently say the Ha Giang loop is unparalleled. It's the most beautiful place in Vietnam and all of Southeast Asia.

~A Fellow Wanderer